Kashmir – Ek Kuudrat ka Karishma

Day Zero: Planning, Route & Travel Tips

It all began with a call from my friend in mid-June 2023. She expressed her eagerness to embark on a joint vacation and delve into potential destination options. After a few exchanges, we zeroed in on the destination – Kashmir, the Unexplored. Planning for an unexplored area demanded considerable effort, even though the specific locations remained uncertain. So, my only condition for investing time in crafting a 10-12 day itinerary was her unwavering commitment to the trip. In this case, the only certainty was bypassing the tourist-laden spots of Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg, and Sonamarg. My friend concurred with a caveat – unless work intervened. As I delved into the untarnished beauty of Kashmir on Google, I must confess that what you glimpse of North Kashmir through digital channels is a mere 5% of the natural splendour that the land holds. The interplay of wind, water, and the warmth of its locals makes this place truly enchanting. My earnest plea is to afford yourself the opportunity to experience it first-hand.

After navigating the terrains with some help from Google Maasi (Maps) over a fortnight, a comprehensive roadmap and a preliminary itinerary for our adventurous escapade began to take shape – Unraveling the Unexplored!

For those who are here just for the route:

Touchdown @ Srinagar Airport – Gurez Valley – Tulail Valley – Watlab (Wular Lake) – Lolab Valley – Keran Valley – Tangdhar / Teethwal – Bangus Valley – Limber Wildlife Sanctuary – Srinagar Airport

The above suggested route forms a circular path, allowing flexibility for a reverse order trip. Consider incorporating additional stopovers, including some touristic spots, with careful planning and additional travel days. The outlined circuit is the final route after a spontaneous modification, guided by the wisdom and insights of my companion, guide, hired cabbie, and newfound friend – Danish. For all taxi services across Kashmir you can reach Danish on +91 70066 99501.

Moreover, as a wandering soul on the road, embrace last-minute route changes, navigate through challenges, and patiently await those moments when nature unveils its breath-taking beauty. As the saying goes – “sarakh ti jaye nakab aiestha aiestha!”

A word of caution for the adventurous souls: refrain from compressing the suggested circuit into less than 9 days, as it may deprive you of truly savoring the paradise and, worse, leave you with overwhelming body aches.

Some vital travel tips:

1. Overall, the road conditions across the state are excellent, apart from off-terrain routes leading to those famous postcard-perfect old villages adjoining the border;
2. Plan your day of road travel prudently, especially if you have females traveling with you, ensuring that you reach your hotel or destination during daylight. It’s wise to call the hotels at the destination to check the preferred route and estimated travel time. Don’t overly rely on Google Maasi blindly;
3. Carry snacks with you if you are a habitual snacker or have kids along, as roadside restaurants or dhabas are few and modestly stocked. Boiled eggs and Maggi are generally available in dhabas, but they can run out of stock;
4. Most importantly, carry your identity documents at all times. Carry a few photocopies of the documents, as you may need them for verification at police checkpoints to access certain military-sensitive places and submit them at various check posts. At some check posts, you will be given tokens to be returned on your way back. There are a few other interesting things these check posts include in their routine checks – I’ll leave those for you to experience;
5. Entry to some border towns is restricted for Indian citizens, so be cautious about inviting overseas friends, especially foreign citizens;
6. Avoid traveling during sensitive dates like Independence Day, as some border locations are restricted for tourist movements. Restrictions generally apply to last-mile border villages, and you won’t miss anything in terms of sightseeing;
7. Please avoid taking photographs near check posts or in sensitive military areas, even if no one is looking. As responsible Indian citizens, let’s be wise and avoid getting into trouble, especially if we have the indiscreet habit of circulating photos on social media. Sometimes a small peek into our motherland is enough for those with evil intentions. Yes, it’s a drone-free land. Seek specific approvals if you need to fly drones;
8. Avoid carrying or getting tempted to buy narcotics, as laws and vigilance are very strict, and drug trafficking is a means to fund local terrorism. Surprise sniffer dogs may be present at some check posts. Some areas are alcohol-free beyond specific check posts, and the guards may ask you specifically. Be honest in your answers and speak the truth. This is not a sermon, just a word of caution. Enjoy a clean vacation for a change;
9. Let me be very, very clear: all the above places are very safe for tourists. At no point during the entire road trip did I feel unsafe or unsure about wandering into towns/villages. However, this does not mean you should take undue risks;
10. Locals are very friendly; there is a concept known as “Kashmiriyat,” which is on full display at all times. More on this later. Please respect their culture and tradition. They are sweet and lovable people. They are as much Indian as we all are – don’t doubt or distrust them. Share your life stories and listen to theirs. Locals have gone through tough times and months of economic blockades; please do not over haggle on prices. A couple of extra thousand rupees will not make you poor but will go a long way for the locals;
11. Only post-paid mobile phones work in the state. Some areas only have 5G network coverage, so consider upgrading your mobile handset. In my experience, Jio has the widest coverage. But if you are beyond network coverage for a day or two, the world won’t collapse. It’s wise to pre-inform your loved ones that you may be off-grid at times. Moreover, while most vendors accept UPI, there may be times when UPI is not accessible due to poor network, so carry enough cash;
12. Please check specifically with your stay providers if you have specific needs/requirements in terms of beds / toilets / showers, etc.;
13. This piece of land is Paradise on Earth; please take extra effort to keep it clean and free of litter with plastics and waste. It’s impossible for any local government to collect waste from every nook and corner. Please carry the waste with you and dispose of it responsibly. I’m not here to preach, so use your discretion and intelligence.

Finding suitable stays in each of these towns was not easy. The options to stay at Government Dak Bungalow, etc., couldn’t be reached over the telephone, and they lacked web presence. Danish was engaged for the entire 11-day trip. Overall, it was a slightly expensive proposition, but I preferred this arrangement for several softer issues. The trip was broadly outlined, and I could firm up the bookings once my friend confirmed the exact travel dates. Since it was a lean season, there was no rush on flight and hotel bookings. We just needed to finalize the dates starting from Friday and ending on the following Sunday – the life of a corporate employee.

The next few days were spent waiting for my friend to confirm. It was during mid-July when my friend messaged me to confirm that the “Boss” had refused to grant any holidays during August. I was totally in love with the itinerary and was looking forward to experiencing Paradise. Since I had invested so much time and effort in planning the trip, I was hesitant to scrap the trip altogether. I made a few calls to some of my other friends who could potentially join the trip, but none of them could confirm for various reasons. I was in two minds about whether to venture out solo given my physical health condition. Also, going solo meant the trip cost doubled. After pondering for a couple of days, I did bite the bullet and firmed up my mind to do the road trip solo. Paradise, here I come. The next day, I confirmed all the bookings and made advance payments where required.

Since it was a relatively unexplored road trip, I was a little wary and wanted the flexibility of a day or two to fix my return flight date. So I booked non-cancellable outbound (Mumbai to Srinagar) flight tickets but booked a flexi-ticket (one date change allowed) for my return journey, which cost me an extra amount. The booking was done in so much excitement that I wrongly booked my return flight for a day earlier than originally planned. That extra Rs. 500 was a savior, and I appreciated my intelligence in spending that extra amount. Now, I had two choices: either to correct the return flight date immediately or wait until the end of the trip for any eventuality. Several thoughts ran through my mind, and I decided to exercise the one lifeline immeditely and fixed the return flight as planned originally, fearing that flight costs would rise as days passed by or there might not be web access, etc.

The overall weather was likely to be moderate, so a fleece jacket would be sufficient for early morning / late evening chill. The nights would be under a thick blanket, and some also promised an electric mattress. I must admit that whatever was promised during the stay was delivered. The region is very new to hospitality, and it’s necessary to communicate clearly if you have any specific requirements.

Day 1: Srinagar to Gurez Valley – The Journey

Srinagar Airport – Dawar, Gurez Valley (via Bazipora – Lawador – Athawatoo): About 150 kms / 5 hrs

A 3-hour-long flight was scheduled to start around 6 am. It took off from Mumbai as per the schedule and reached Srinagar a few minutes before the scheduled time. I spent most of the flight sleeping like a baby.

There was a small technical hitch in the taxi arrangement, of which I was made aware just a day before my flight from Mumbai. Danish Samoon (more on him later), my friend in making / guide / driver / companion / philosopher for the trip, had another booking for that day. So, he arranged an alternative taxi driver, Tarik, to pick me up from the airport terminal to Gurez Valley. Tarik was a little street-smart fellow who called and asked me to take a rickshaw from the airport terminal and come up to the airport premises gate. I was furious as I had luggage that I could not lift and move around, but I decided to keep my cool.

Srinagar Airport is a sensitive zone; any pick-up of tourists from the terminal requires the driver to secure an access pass from the authorities the previous day. Tarik had saved himself from this hassle of securing a pass and took the approach of spinning a story that the authorities don’t allow an empty taxi to enter the airport premises up to the terminal. Since I didn’t want to spoil my overall mood, so I took a cab from the terminal parking area to the airport main gate, which cost me about Rs. 1,000 for a distance of about 2 km. Obviously, the cab guy made the most of the situation, and I was more than eager to let him make a booty in the interest of saving time and energy. It took three additional calls to Tarik and additional 20 minutes for him to reach the airport entry gate. Once he reached, he was not at all apologetic, and his excuse for being late was that there was some VIP movement on the way – a blatant lie.

During my entire trip, Tarik was the only guy who let me down on the grounds of his dishonesty. Maybe he has overstayed in Srinagar, the commercial centre. Anyways, the lesson here is that if you need a taxi to come up to the airport terminal, which you should expect, please instruct your taxi driver very clearly. It’s prudent to speak to the actual driver himself a couple of days before the flight day so that instructions are clear and last-minute hassle and inconvenience can be avoided.

We started from Srinagar around 9.30 am, passing through the outskirts. The city was slowly coming to life, and you could see lone military / CRPF personnel patrolling the streets every 500 meters away. I’m not sure if it was due to the ongoing Amarnath Yatra, as this portion of the route was common. Once we crossed the suburban area, there were no further security personnel to be seen. Kashmir has the following security personnel deployed – Indian Army, J&K Police, and CRPF. It’s too confusing for me to understand their jurisdiction, power, and role in the security of the land. But I am told all Kashmiris are fully aware of each of these units’ roles and power because Tarik knew when to continue speaking on the mobile and when not. Tarik would say, “Sir ji, these security teams don’t have jurisdiction over road rules, etc.” I thought it was funny. If you think from the local resident perspective, the current young generation has grown with the security personnel all around them all the time. I must admit every person in Kashmir I met during the trip has great respect for the Nation and the military personnel. They may have a few complaints about the present / past political establishments, its policies, etc., depending on whom you are talking to, but I rather stay away from political dialogue because it’s a mirror with different curvatures.

Just before you reach Lawador, you will see the entire beautiful Wular Lake from an altitude. You will not miss it. Take a few minutes to get off the vehicle and enjoy the serenity.

More on Wular Lake later. Some of the other touristic attractions on the route are Haramukh Peak and Naranaag. Please allow for additional days, if you decide to take these deviations. Staying overnight at Athawatoo before heading to Gurez Valley looks tempting, but personally, I think it’s an overrated stopover, and a direct dash to Dawar (Gurez Valley) is recommended.

There are very few dhabas on the way; luckily, I was carrying some theplas with me. I offered some to Tarik, but he refused. I’m sure he had a hearty breakfast, and hence got late to pick me up – devil thoughts were continuing in my mind – I’m just another human. The only pit stop we got was just before the start of Razdan Pass. We had a quick stop for some much-needed refreshments – tea and egg omelette sandwich. Since the infrastructure is very basic, the call of nature has to be in the open behind the trees, so moderate how much liquid you consume, based on your comfort.

Tea in this part of the world comes in two forms – “Namkeen” and “Lipton”. Lipton is our regular tea with sugar and milk. You need to give specific instructions if you need any modification to your Lipton tea. Now the local variant is called Namkeen; yes, they add salt to tea instead of sugar. The very thought of having salt in my tea was very weird. I’m a very fussy guy in terms of my food habits. I never gathered enough courage to even sip this Namkeen chai during my entire trip. I regret it. Local residents have their personal regime on chai. Some always have Namkeen chai, some have their first cup of the day as Namkeen chai, and the rest is followed by Lipton. Some have Namkeen chai along with their puff; otherwise, they drink Lipton. Some drink Namkeen with their girlfriends; otherwise, they prefer Lipton. Combinations and their rationale are interesting. Some link Namkeen chai to Ayurvedic benefits, etc.

Anyways, back to dhabas – The tea stall owner was all smiles and courteous gentlemen. My assessment was that he was a local herdsman / tribal. My bill came to something around Rs. 40, and I handed him Rs. 100 currency note. He was very apologetic for not having the change and asked me if I wanted something else for the trip. I asked him to keep the change and treat his kids with sweets. He was very upright and suggested that I should stop on my way back and take the change from him. He even wrote his name with his mobile number on a small paper and gave it to me. I lost that paper purposefully sometime during the trip. I was totally impressed by his consciousness that what is not his cannot be kept by him.

The fluttering Indian flag atop the lofty mast at Razdan Pass invokes a cascade of emotions. It’s not just a sight; it’s a symphony of pride and honour that resonates through the heart. In the proximity of the border, Gurez Valley hosts an army base camp where Indian soldiers stand resilient through the biting winters. A salute, heartfelt and deep, is dedicated to their unwavering commitment!

As you gaze upon their shacks, standing as sentinels at the crossroads guarding the bridges, a sense of compassion envelops you. Luxuries we take for granted in the city become elusive for them — no hot water, limited access to electricity, open washrooms, and more. Yet, amidst these challenges, they maintain an unwavering vigilance. My morning walks provided opportunities to converse with these valiant military personnel. Their modest acknowledgment that they are merely fulfilling their duty, earning a salary for the same, always instilled a sense of pride. It reminded me that we are shielded by resilient soldiers who safeguard our borders, enabling us to lead peaceful daily lives. In the bustling city, these sacrifices often go unnoticed. Therefore, visits to the border area are imperative to gain a profound perspective on their hardships and our comforts.

Beyond Razdan Pass, a series of checkpoints awaits, each demanding a glimpse of your identity documents. My Aadhar Card emerged as a steadfast proof at every checkpoint during the entire expedition. Among these, the last checkpoint holds paramount importance. Here, they bestow upon you a token, a key to be guarded and later submitted upon your return. Presumably linked to your declared days’ sojourn in Gurez, these tokens are not to be taken lightly. Please do not over stay in Gurez Valley than declared at check-point. An occasional jest warns that losing one may tether you to Gurez indefinitely. Recent media reports hint at the unfolding of this route up to Drass — an adventurous road ride, a missed opportunity that adds an extra layer of intrigue to the journey.

While waiting for security clearance at the check-post, a charismatic young man with an infectious smile dashed to my side of the car. He was genuinely apologetic for missing something, a surprising encounter in a new land, especially from someone constantly saying, “Sorry, Sorry, Sorry”. This was the introduction of Danish into my journey.

A brief conversation in their local language ensued between Danish and Tarik, with Danish instructing Tarik more through speedy hand gestures than words. Intrigued, I later asked Tarik about their conversation. He revealed that Danish was explaining the exact location of the resort where I needed to be dropped off. It felt like being a DHL parcel in transit. Up to this moment, I wondered if Tarik was aware of my drop-off point, a question I didn’t dare to ask him.

The day had begun at 3 am, and the journey, though long, had been pleasant. The allure of an unexplored road trip lies in the mystery at every turn. It’s a departure from the predictability of visiting landmarks like the “Taj Mahal” or staying at the “Taj” anywhere. Despite my desire to become a savvy modern traveler with every travel app, I find joy in leaving a few things open-ended, allowing for surprises and hidden gems. Admittedly, I would have been more cautious if a female companion had joined me. The charm of a road trip to a remote, unexplored location lies in the fact that even Google Maasi is often confused. Consider visiting the “Taj Mahal”; the amount of information available online about landmarks and directions is overwhelming. On the contrary, navigating to one’s stay in Gurez Valley requires a different level of intuition.

Northern Kashmir, predominantly a Muslim religious community, led me to presume that all Muslims across India spoke Urdu. However, during the trip, I discovered that apart from Hindi, three main languages are spoken in Gurez Valley – Shina, Kashmiri, and Urdu. Among these, Kashmiri is considered the most challenging to master. Despite spending 10 days with Danish, I couldn’t decipher the language he spoke with people. His adaptability in charming individuals, coupled with his fluency in all three languages, left me in awe. Even Tarik, a local boy from Gurez Valley, conversed in all four languages, highlighting the linguistic diversity of the region.

As you descend from Razdan Pass and approach Dawar, this stretch of the road is a bit rough, with ongoing road-works. After a while, a gentle river emerges on the right side of the road. Initially, you notice a river flowing alongside the road, and suddenly, a vast lake-like formation appears.

This lake owes its existence to the run-of-the-river 330 MW Kishanganga hydroelectric dam. The soil composition and tranquillity behind the dam transform the Kishanganga river water into an exotic pale green colour, perhaps partly due to the reflection of the surrounding greenery. The formation of the lake is breath-taking and irresistibly calls for a roadside break. The river water shimmers with sunrays reflecting off it, creating a beauty meant to be captured for eternity.

You could spend hours admiring the lake and the surrounding hills. I limited my halt to a refreshing 15 minutes. The Kishanganga river follows an interesting inter-region flow, originating near Sonamarg, flowing northwards into Gurez Valley and beyond. Several glacial streams originating from across the Pakistan Occupied Kashmir (POK) border merge with Kishanganga near Gurez. After the dam, the river enters POK near Bagtore, re-enters India near Keran, and eventually flows into POK somewhere near Tangdhar. Known as Kishanganga in India and Neelum in POK, the river merges into Jhelum near Muzzaffrabad in POK.

While planning this trip in Mumbai, I initially believed that Dawar and Gurez were distinct towns, prompting the question of whether to book my stay in Dawar or Gurez. Dawar serves as an administrative town, where all tourists stay, and post-Razdan Pass, the entire region is referred to as “Gurez Valley.” However, even as you enter Dawar, the welcome dashboard at the town’s entry declares, “Welcome to Gurez!” The names Dawar and Gurez are often used interchangeably, a liberty I’ll also take. In the valley, nobody uses the name Dawar; it’s probably reserved for government departmental procedural paperwork. Dawar, situated on the banks of Kishanganga, is a small town with a few tourist hotels, still developing its tourism infrastructure. Booking your stay in advance is advisable, as Gurez has gained popularity in the tourist circuit. Mostly, local tourists from Srinagar and nearby towns visit Gurez Valley over weekends. Dawar town have limited room inventory, and staying closer to Dawar town is recommended, especially for families, to avoid remote campsites and any sense of spookiness. With the influx of tourists, various tented campsites have emerged, some operated by locals aiming to make a quick income, merely by putting up tents. Tented accommodations along the banks of Kishanganga cater to those with an adventurous spirit and physical fitness.

Upon entering Dawar, a signboard for my resort caught my eye, reassuring me that we were headed in the right direction. Passing through the town market and crossing another bridge back to the right banks of the river, Tarik effortlessly guided me to the resort. Bid farewell to Tarik, and that was the last I saw of him. During the journey from Srinagar to Gurez, Tarik had managed to extract Rs. 500 from me, a part of the story I feel hesitant to narrate. Consequently, I skipped tipping Tarik.

As we reached the resort gates, two young boys came running out to greet me and introduced themselves. One of them, Irfan, was the manager of the resort, while the other, Shahil, handled my luggage. The boys led me into the premises and directed me to one of the tents near the entrance. The resort, situated on the right bank of the enchanting river Kishanganga, is cradled between two majestic mountain ranges on either side. The left bank’s mountains are draped in lush greenery, a striking contrast to the barren but intriguing mountains on the right, adorned sporadically with crops and trees. The arid landscape begins just beyond a small patch of agricultural fields, creating a remarkable juxtaposition. A delightful delta forms behind my tent, sculpted by the gentle flow of the river. Completing the picturesque scene are a solitary hammock and a small log bridge connecting the property to the delta. Underneath the bridge, the river flows calmly, its waters shallow and its current gentle, while on the other side of the delta, the river asserts its strength with a robust flow.

Upon a quick assessment, I asked Irfan if I could choose another tent, one closer to the riverbank. Since there were no other guests, he smiled and said, “No problem, Sir, select any tent!” Opting for the tent “Patal Wan” turned out to be a good choice, conveniently close to the kitchen and dining area.

Inspecting the tent, which had its bathroom-toilets, Irfan assured me of hot water on request. Exhausted after a long day, I was equally famished. As Shahil placed my luggage in the tent, I inquired if I could get something to eat. Irfan suggested I rest while he would summon the cook to take my food order. Delighted with the personalized service, I appreciated the attention. Around 3 pm, as soon as I hit the bed, I dozed off. After about 45 minutes, my stomach craved sustenance. Uncertain if the cook had visited and left upon seeing me asleep, I stepped out to assess the situation. Irfan and Shahil were basking in the sun in the garden. Inquiring about the cook, I learned he was sleeping. Unsure how to react, I realized that in this new tourist spot, hospitality might take time to reach acceptable metro city standards. Wondering when the cook would wake up, I asked Irfan. He offered to wake him and suggested Shahil could prepare some tea and toast. I requested that the cook may not be disturbed and agreed for few slices of toast-butter and tea and added a small instruction: please make it “Lipton”.

After 15 minutes, Shahil returned bearing a perfect cup of tea and couple of slices of toast — a satisfying repast for the moment. Seated with the two lads, I sipped my Lipton chai, engaging in conversation to glean insights into the local culture and discover activities in and around Gurez. Irfan gestured towards a near-perfect pyramid-shaped mountain. Standing tall at about 13,000 feet, it was a nearly barren yet magnetically attractive peak. “That’s Habba Khatoon” he explained. This magnificent mountain had captivated my attention as we approached the resort from the town side, positioned directly in my line of sight as I alighted from the taxi. Its allure was undeniable, prompting everyone to inquire about it, irrespective of prior knowledge of its folklore.

Post-chai, I had no inclination to explore further for the rest of the day. I simply wanted to bask in the birdsong, the river’s local flute-like melody, and the cool breeze. A cold beer would have been perfect, but alas, Gurez doesn’t retail alcohol—bring your own stash. Opting to continue chatting with Irfan and Shahil, I discovered that Irfan was Danish’s brother. Zeeshan, their first cousin was the owner of the resort. It was all in the family. Irfan had a charismatic smile, visible when he chose to express it. After a while, the cook, Iqbal, strolled over, stretching in all directions. Courteously, he greeted me and inquired about my ride to Gurez and if I desired anything to eat or drink. I appreciated his considerate nature and requested an early dinner followed by an early night. He gave me a thumbs up.

As there were no other guests, the four of us continued chatting. Their curiosity about Mumbai, my family, solo travel, my health, and why I was single led to a delightful exchange of information. Some of their questions emanated from sheer innocence. Inquiring about their evening routine without guests, Iqbal revealed they played cricket. Suggesting a cricket match that evening, they eagerly agreed, and the small patch of open land behind my tent became the impromptu cricket pitch. Shahil swiftly dashed to the market to purchase two new balls. A flat bat cut from a single piece of hard wood served as the crude but sturdy cricket bat.

As the cricket match concluded with the encroaching darkness, Iqbal hurried to the kitchen to prepare dinner, and I joined Zaakir, Hussain, and others for another round of chit-chat. Zaakir and Hussain, close friends, chose to stay back in Gurez to promote local culture instead of pursuing more lucrative careers elsewhere. Both Zaakir and Hussain took it upon themselves to educate me about local traditions, cultural heritage, and historical roots. They referred to the local Gurezians as Dadri, who spoke Shina, their traditional language. The Dadris originally hailed from the Gilgit region, and the earlier kings of Kashmir were from the Dadri lineage. We delved into local issues – how young boys and girls were leaving Gurez for better prospects, with government jobs being the only alternative to tourism. Agriculture, mostly cultivating rice, potatoes, and rajma, was meager. A variant of cumin, known as kala jeera, grew on the surrounding mountains, and annually, the government permitted locals to collect the wild kala jeera. Zaakir and Hussain also lamented the high demands and status-conscious nature of local girls, attributing it to the advent of mobile phones. However, they were optimistic about the increasing education and employment opportunities for local girls. They invited me to attend a musical concert the folowing day, where Zaakir was set to perform local traditional spiritual songs.

A simple vegetarian dinner followed in the newly built building that housed staff quarters and the kitchen on the ground floor, with a dining area on the first floor – cozy, with four to five tables for the guests.

Gurez receives electricity between 8 pm and 5 am, and very few hotels have generators. Critical activities, primarily charging electronic devices, need to be planned accordingly. Don’t anticipate luxuries in the tent; but it comfortably accommodates three people with one double bed and one single bed. The tent is spacious, devoid of any claustrophobic feeling. The toilet is clean, and the bathroom boasts a constant flow of water. After plugging in my mobile charger, I was ready to call it a night. Irfan ensured the electric mattress was functional, and as he zipped the tent entrance fully down, I requested him to leave it slightly open for emergency access. Though hesitant, he complied and bid me goodnight. I slept soundly, resembling a baby.

I might have woken up once during the night for a restroom visit. Summoning enough energy to step out of the tent, I observed the surroundings—it wasn’t entirely quiet. In the hush of the night, a little distance from the mountain base, not far from my tent, I could hear a couple of dogs barking persistently. Puzzled about what could disturb them so much at midnight. I glanced around; the sky was cloudy, devoid of any stars. I hoped the weather would remain favourable for the next few days, free from any form of cloud bursts like those in Himachal or Uttarakhand in the previous few weeks. The mountain opposite my tent reflected the moonlight it could gather—I named it “Ghost Mountain.”

Feeling tired and uninterested in investigating the cause of the dogs’ discomfort, I returned to bed, only to wake up a bit late the next morning.

Day 2: Gurez Valley – Read More

Day 3: Tulail Valley – Read More

Day 4: Bagtore Valley – Read More

Day 5: Wular Lake – Read More

Day 6: Lolab Valley – Read More

Day 7: Keran Valley – Read More

Day 8: Tangdhar / Teethwal – Read More

Day 9: Bangus Valley – Read More

Day 10: Limber Wildlife – Read More

Day 11: Pattan, Mangam – Enroute Srinagar – Read More

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